Chapter Thirteen: The Market: "Greetings from the Non-Barcode People"

1. WEDNESDAY AFTERNOON"It didn't surprise me to read that the typical item of food on an American's plate travels some fifteen hundred miles to get there, and is frequently better traveled and more worldly than it's eater." Following the corn-based industrial food chain took Pollan thousands of miles, but the Virginian grass-baded food chain is remarkably short for it's complexity. All that remained was to trace this food chain along the various links between Joel's pastures and his customers' plates. Polyface does not sell to supermarkets, ship long distances or wholesale its food. Which is where the "greetings from the non-Barcode people" saying came into existence. Four hundred local people reserve a chicken every Wednesday, from schoolteaachers, to mechanics, opera singers, young moms, furniture makers, retirees and twins. Although more expensive, and more of a hassle to get, these chickens tasted better and added to the "relationship marketing" of the community businesses, among other things. Joel also sells to EcoFriendly Foods (a one man operation that sells Polyface meat and eggs at local farmers markets) and local restaraunts.
Food is exempt from it's history. A car must tell of its make, model, where it was produced and with what parts from where. But food is built on the wall of ignorance. Joel would rather build local economies, with "relationship marketing," and completely destroy the need for barcodes. Personally, that seems highly unlikely considering so many people live in cities far removed from places where food is grown. Then again, Joel doesn't believe that New York City has a use, and although I disagree, I don't like NYC either.
2. THURSDAY MORNING

You can find "Polyface chicken"
on many local restaurant menus.

Thursday is delivery day; Joel's brother Art loads his truck with Polyface goods and delivers them to local restaurants. His truck says "ON DELIVERY FROM POLYFACE INC. FOLLOW ME TO THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN TOWN." And many of Charlottesville's best restaurants do buy from Polyface. The chefs praise the high quality goods, especially the eggs. His egg yolk demonstration usually books new customers--the huge, thick, "muscle-toned," orangey-yellow yolks land him the sale almost every time. Besides price, many customers have problems with the seasonality of local foods. There is no such thing as winter chicken or spring lamb for Polyface. For Tyson, sure, but he doesn't make "chickenier chicken." Too bad. But the relationship between Joel, art and their chefs is of the deepest respect. From Chef Appreciation Day, to the seldom arguing of price and pride in "Polyface Farm Chicken" has brought this local food economy into a tight bond. Hopefully (for me and you and Joel Salatin) one day the food system will change to include more tight knit local food communities and less Perdue and Tyson chicken. I personally cannot wait.